From Vine to Divine:  Arak, The Milky Mystique of Syrian Tradition

In the southern reaches of Syria lies Sweida, a region steeped in history and tradition. Here, amidst the rolling hills and ancient vineyards, Abu Nizar’s journey with Arak unfolds like a tapestry woven through time. At 90 years young, Abu Nizar is a guardian of tradition, his life is a testament to the enduring spirit of Syria. Each evening, as the sun dips below the horizon, he partakes in a ritual as old as the hills that cradle his beloved city. With a glass of Arak in hand, he sips the essence of his homeland, a liquid symphony of history and culture.

Arak, divine in its simplicity, is the elixir of the Levant, a cherished companion to the mezza platter’s mosaic of flavors. It is said that to drink Arak is to dance with the soul of Syria, to embrace the warmth of its people and the richness of their land. Known in the Middle East as ‘the milk of lions,’ this robust spirit, distilled from grapes and aniseed, transforms from transparent to a cloudy, milky hue upon the addition of water and ice, a spectacle much revered by those who cherish Middle Eastern traditions.

The narrative of Arak is deeply entwined with Abu Nizar’s own—a tale of tenacity and fervor. It begins with the grape, a gift from the earth, caressed by the Syrian sun and nurtured by the soil of Sweida. The aniseed, the protagonist of this story, imparts its fragrant notes to the concoction. Together, they undergo distillation, a union of flavors fated for magnificence. The alchemy is enchanting; clarity turns to creaminess, and the ordinary turns extraordinary, echoing the transformation of the land it hails from.

Abu Nizar, a maestro of this ancient craft, learned the alchemy of Arak from his father, who in turn learned from his forefathers, a lineage of artisans stretching back into the mists of time. This storied beverage, distilled from the finest grapes and anise seeds, is more than a mere drink—it is a cultural sacrament that embodies the soul of Syria.

The ritual of mixing Arak with water and ice, watching it transform from clear to milky white, mirrors the transformation of the Syrian community—a people defined by their resilience and adaptability. This phenomenon, known as “louching”, is a mesmerizing dance of anethole and water, and is a spectacle that never ceases to amaze; softening Arak’s essence and symbolizing the Syrians’ perpetual evolution. In Arak’s transformation lies a metaphor for the Syrian journey—ever-changing, ever-enduring.

Never downed on its own, Arak is always served with mezza (tidbits of food) which could include up to a variety of a hundred dishes. The Mezza platter is a feast for the senses, a canvas painted with the rich, varied colors of Syrian gastronomy. It is a vibrant medley of small dishes, each a culinary masterpiece that awakens the senses:

• Tabbouleh: A verdant salad, its greens and tomatoes offering a feast for the eyes and a refreshment for the palate.
• Hummus: A velvety blend, crowned with golden olive oil, beckoning one to indulge in its smooth richness.
• Muhammara: A fiery spread, its bold red hue as intense as its flavor.
• Mutabal: A smoky eggplant dip, its understated appearance belies the depth of taste it holds.

These dishes, emblematic of Syrian hospitality, are not just consumed; they are experiences to be shared, savored, and revered. They are the companions to Arak, each sip enhancing its smooth, anise-flavored warmth, a tribute to friendship and the ephemeral beauty of life. The act of sipping Arak while indulging in appetizers is the crescendo of the meal, a moment where the symphony of Syrian cuisine reaches its peak.

In the heart of the Sweida region, where the tapestry of tradition is as rich as the land itself, the art of savoring life’s simple pleasures is perfected. Here, a traditional Syrian lunch or dinner is not just a meal but an immersive journey that unfolds over the course of hours. It’s an experience that celebrates the art of living; where families and friends bond over a spread of mezze and Arak, the drink that boldly stands amidst a myriad of eclectic flavors. This drink, rather than overwhelming the senses, elevates each bite, enhancing the harmony of traditional dishes with its presence. This is the essence of Syrian food culture: a seamless marriage of taste and tradition, the very heartbeat of Syria.

Within this heartbeat thrives Abu Nizar’s evenings, a microcosm of Syrian conviviality. His gatherings are a symphony of stories and laughter, flowing as freely as the Arak that graces each glass. The mezza platter, a cornucopia of Syrian delights, sets the stage for Arak’s silent ballet. Each sip is a tribute to friendship, a toast to the fleeting moments that stitch together the fabric of life. In crafting Arak, Abu Nizar weaves his soul into the narrative of Syria, continuing a sacred tradition that is both a vessel of memory and a keeper of stories—a divine libation that captures the enduring essence of a nation.

As the stars emerge above Sweida, Abu Nizar raises his glass in a silent ode to the journey of Arak and the unyielding spirit of his people. In these moments, the true essence of Syria is savored, not just on the palate but in the heart.

Lama Alhassanieh