Syrian cuisine developed in Aleppo

To understand Syrian cuisine as it developed in Aleppo , a little history is necessary. Aleppo is ancient, but its roots are buried beneath a very modern city. Legend has it that the prophet Abraham paused in Aleppo to milk his cows on Citadel Hill, thus spawning Its Arabic name Halab, which means’ milk.’ It is one of Syrian’s principle cities and the second largest after Damascus. Located in northwest Syria, it borders on Turkey and is at the crossroads of great and historic commercial routes, only sixty miles from the Mediterranean Sea and the Euphrates River.

Aleppo lies along the Baghdad Istanbul railway and is linked by rail with Damascus and Beirut Lebanon. With road connect ions to Damascus, Latakia, and Antioch, Turkey it is a natural gateway to Asia.

The old city of Aleppo is centered around and dominated by a twelfth-century citadel where the ancient souks, or bazaars, are found. They run along narrow and winding streets and virtually everything from spices and silks

to brass are sold in these precursors to modern shopping malls.

The city was originally laid out in welled districts entered via babs or doors. Different groups such as Jews and Armenians lived in these distinct quarters.

Though no longer segregated residential entities, these areas are still known by their ethnic names.

The overwhelming majority of Aleppians are Muslim but Christians, Jews, Turks and Armenians have had say a in the life of the city for centuries. While some group rivalries exist it is not unusual to find churches and Mosques abutting one another in Syria’s major cities.

Travlers in Syria quickly realize that the people are multilingual diverse and very much aware of the diversity around them. In the crossroads that is Aleppo this is particularly true. Like Damascus, it is filled with many foreigners, tourists, and refugees. The Ottoman occupation of Syria, Lebanon, Greece, and Armenia supplied a context for tolerance and sharing giving Aleppians a commonality of food, albeit in slightly different forms and presentations. When we hear baklava, for example, we think of Greece, but it is also a Syrian pastry called baklawa. Over time, the string cheese brought to Syria by the Armenians became known as Halabi cheese or the cheese of Aleppo because that is where so many of these refugees settled.

For these reasons, the cuisine of Aleppo is considered by many to be not only unique but the best of the Arab world (see “Aleppo’s Allure,” The New York Times Magazine, July 15, l990).Amixture of Turkish, Greek, Armenian, and Arab influences, its variety and seasonings distinguish Aleppian food from all others. Aleppians serve particularly tasty versions of kabob. kibbeh, mezze, and stuffed vegetables. The city is famous for its hot peppers, pomegranates, and pistachio nuts. Aleppo is surrounded by flocks of fat-tailed Awassi sheep olives and fruit orchards and its traditional dishes draw their character from its countryside. Its famous pistachios are used in many pastries, smothered in sugar syrup.

It is not only the rich assortment of appetizers, main courses and desserts that set Aleppo’s cuisine apart from the rest of Syria, but attention to detail, subtlety of flavor and elegance of presentation. Aleppo has a French ambience, while Damascus is more British.

In addition, each city has its own specialties. Mamuneh’ya, a sweet breakfast delight, is served only in Aleppo while a range of unique chickpea salads are commonplace in Damascus.

For appetizers, side dishes, or even a snack or luncheon meal, nothing surpasses hummus (pureed chickpeas) or baba ghanouj (pureed eggplant) with parsley or cumin as a garnish. M’hammara, a mix of red peppers, walnuts and pomegranate syrup tastes great on pita. Like lebaneh, a yogurt spread drizzled with olive oil and dried mint it is an appealing party dip. All these are common throughout the Middle East and vary in taste and texture from city to city and family to family.

Kibbehtrabulsieh, a popular entree, named after the city of Tripoli is an egg-shape lamb and wheat meatball, stuffed with sautéed ground lamb spices, and pine nuts. Cooked in rendered butter it is loved by all. Likewise, shish kabob or mishwie, as we call it, is all the rage. Though our parents would eat it only with grilled onions, we now add a variety of vegetables to the skewer. The present fashion is to serve it over rice. Mishwie can be found on grills throughout Syria, day and night. The aroma of lamb and the scent of the ubiquitous jasmine fill the night air especially in Damascus and Aleppo where no one dines before 10:00p.m.

Syrians often make rice with vermicelli, sautéed in butter and cooked with chicken broth. Many serve it with lightly browned pine nuts as a garnish but it can also be made with saffron, which colors it an appealing yellow and provides a characteristic taste. Sitto Alice added only saffron to her rice, Sitto Helen only vermicelli. Both variations are very Syrian.

All Syrian food should be eaten with Syrian bread (pita). Finding a good bakery is important. Most large cities with Arab communities have them and we strongly recommend freshly baked Syrian bread over that sold in supermarkets. Use the bread to wipe your dish clean. Or open it and scoop up leban, hummus, baba ghanouj or mhammara. Use it for sandwiches. Toast it for use in salads or stuff it with Syrian cheese, toasting it until the cheese melts. Delicious  Halaweh or halvah, as it is called in the United States is a well known Middle Eastern delicacy.

Source: A taste of Syria 2nd edition

Haifaa  Mafalani